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F-150 Fuel Pump Replacement

How to Replace the Fuel Pump on a Ford F-150

 

Fuel pumps wear out over time, whether it's an electric fuel pump such as the one found on this 2002 F-150, or a mechanical fuel pump found on older vehicles. With Ford Modular engines (4.6L/5.4L), a weak fuel pump can cause hard starts, rough idling, and even leave your vehicle stranded. Our local Ford dealership wanted over $800 to perform this operation (parts + labor). We replaced the fuel pump in about 3 hours for just over $300.

 

Dropping Tank vs. Removing Bed for Fuel Pump Removal

There are 2 methods for accessing the fuel pump; dropping the tank or removing the bed. Since we had the resources, we opted to remove the bed instead of remove the fuel tank. This eliminates risk of breaking a tank strap and spilling fuel. Additionally, removing the bed is a relatively easy 2 man operation, and we'd much rather work from above than below. If your bed bolts are corroded or you don't have the required tools necessary to lift the bed, you should consider dropping the tank.

 

F150 Bed Removal

The bed is secured by 6 T50 Torx bolts. Remove your bed liner (if applicable) and remove the 6 bolts. Our pickup had locking tabs on the bed bolts, so there was no need to have someone holding the nuts beneath the truck. Next, disconnect the wiring for the tail lights and the license plate lights. The plugs are located beneath the truck in the rear and exact location may vary based on your model year (trace the wiring to find the plugs). Also remove the fuel tank cap and the strap that secures the filler neck to the bed. Use your bed hooks, 2 straps/ropes, and a chain hoist to lift the bed. Pull the truck forward and lower the bed onto saw horses (if you want unlimited work space) or set the bed about 18" from the cab (this will provide ample room to complete the procedure, as the fuel pump is located directly behind the cab).

 

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• We opted to remove the bed as opposed to dropping the tank. The bed is held down by six T50 torx bolts - start by removing these bolts.
• Next, you'll need to disconnect the wiring for the tail lights and license plate lights. Trace the wiring and you disconnect the plugs for both. The exact locations may vary, but we had to disconnect three plugs, all located near the rear bumper.
• Remove the fuel tank cap, filler neck strap, and filler neck mounting hardware so that it is no longer attached to the bed.

• To lift the bed, we attached tow straps to all four corners and lifted it with a chain hoist hanging from the rafters of the shop, then drove the truck forward.
• With the bed remove and the truck off, disconnect the negative battery cable before proceeding.
• The new fuel pump has an arrow etched into the top cover (red arrow in photo). Mark this arrows location on the tank using a marker, so that the new fuel pump is aligned exactly the same as the old one once it is installed.

• Remove the 6 hex bolts that secure the fuel pump assembly as well as the electrical connector for the fuel pump.
• Remove the two fuel lines from the fuel pump assembly - a flat head screwdriver will help with the retaining clips if they don't want to cooperate.

• Carefully extract the old fuel pump assembly from the tank. Remove the old gasket if it did not come up with the pump.
• Install the new gasket and fuel pump assembly opposite removal. A light coating of silicon lubricant can be applied to the new gasket to ensure a positive seal. Make sure the arrows on the fuel pump and tank line up, then reinstall the mounting bolts.

• Connect the fuel lines to the new fuel pump assembly, and then the electrical connection. Reconnect the negative battery cable.

• Reinstall the bed or tank and test the new fuel pump. It's normal for the truck to turn over more than usual during this first start as air is being purged from the fuel line. We recommend cycling the keys several times for 10-20 seconds at a time.